The best way to explore Copenhagen is either to walk or cycle: the
inner city is compact, much of the central area pedestrianized and the
entire city has a comprehensive network of excellent cycle paths -
you'll often find it just as quick to walk or cycle as to wait for a
bus. For travelling further afield, there's an integrated network of
buses and S-Tog and local trains
Tickets
All city transport operates on an integrated - and complicated - zonal
system . There are dozens of zones (pick up a free leaflet from any S-Tog
station); you may find it easiest at first simply to state your
destination and you'll be sold the appropriate ticket. The city centre
and immediately surrounding area, as you'd expect, are in zones 1 and 2.
Fares are based on a combination of zones and time: the cheapest ticket
costs 12kr and is valid for one hour's travel within any two zones, with
unlimited transfers between buses and trains. Another option is the
klippekort ticket, containing ten stamps which you cancel individually
according to the length of your journey and the value of the klippekort
. The cheapest klippekort cost 80kr, with each stamp being valid for an
hour's travel within any two zones; each stamp in a 110kr klippekort is
valid for ninety minutes' travel within any three zones - good value if
you plan to travel outside the city centre - and is also valid to and
from the airport; seven-zone and over klippekort stamps are valid for
two hours. Unlimited transfers are allowed within the time period of the
ticket, and two or more people can use the same klippekort
simultaneously, provided you clip the required number of stamps per
person. There's also an excellent-value 24-hour ticket (70kr) which is
valid on all transport in all zones as far afield as Helsingør and
Roskilde, as well as night buses. All types of ticket can be bought on
board buses, at train stations or in the city's many newsagents. They
should be stamped when boarding the bus or in the machines on station
platforms. Except on buses, it's rare to be asked to show your ticket,
but if you don't have one you face an instant fine of 250kr.
The Copenhagen Card
The Copenhagen Card (155kr for 1 day; 255kr for 2; 320kr for 3) allows
unlimited travel on the entire metropolitan system (which includes the
towns of Helsingør, Roskilde and Hillerød) and also gives entry to
virtually every museum in the Copenhagen area. The cards are quite
pricey, however, and unless you're planning to cram a lot of museums
into a very short space of time it's difficult to make them pay - the
one exception might be if you use the three-day card to visit several of
the outlying attractions. Note too that on Wednesdays entrance to nearly
every museum in the city is free. The card also gives twenty- to fifty-percent
discounts on some car rental and ferry rides, and on certain museum
entry prices in southern Sweden. It's available from the tourist office,
travel agents, hotels and most train stations in the metropolitan region
- get it stamped when you use it for the first time and sign the back.
Trains
The S-Tog train service is a metropolitan network covering Copenhagen
and the surrounding areas. It is laid out in a huge U shape, with almost
all services passing through Central Station (in Danish, Hovedbanegården
or København H); each line runs about every ten to fifteen minutes
between 5am and 12.30am. The network is rather confusing, so study the
map thoroughly before boarding your train. There are both slow and fast
trains - check carefully or you could whizz straight past your
destination. The network can be a bit erratic, running some odd routes
and being occasionally plagued by inexplicable delays, but it's still
the fastest way to reach outlying points. Stations are marked by red
hexagonal signs with a yellow "S" inside them.
There is also a local network of Danish State Railway (DSB) trains which
connect to Helsingør and Roskilde, calling at Østerport and Nørreport
stations and some suburban destinations; remember that the S-Tog and DSB
stations have different entrances at Nørreport station. The same tickets
are valid on both networks, though note that Eurail passes and InterRail
are valid only on DSB trains.
Buses
The city's bus network is much more comprehensive than the S-Tog system
and can be a more convenient way to get around once you get the hang of
finding the stops - marked by yellow placards on signposts - and as long
as you avoid the rush hour. The excellent free city map produced by the
Wonderful Copenhagen office includes a list of all bus routes. The
city's main bus stand is adjacent to Rådhuspladsen, a block from both
Central Station and the Tivoli Gardens. Other useful buses leave from
Central Station's Vesterport side entrance, the Tivoli side entrance and
the bridge at the end of the tracks (including the #550S, which goes
straight to the ferry docks every ten minutes). Buses with an "S" suffix
only make limited stops, offering a faster service - check they make the
stop you require before you get on. All buses have a small electronic
board above the driver's seat displaying both the zone you're currently
in and the correct time - so there's no excuse for not having a valid
ticket. There's a skeletal night bus service, though fares are almost
double daytime rates. Night bus numbers always end with "N"; stops are
well marked by yellow signs on major routes into and out of the city.
Taxis
Taxis are plentiful, and with several people sharing can be good value
for cross-city journeys. Within Copenhagen there's a basic fare of 22kr,
plus a charge of 10-13kr per kilometre depending on day and time.
There's a handy taxi rank outside Central Station, or hail any cab in
the street that's showing a green "Fri" (free) sign on top.
Alternatively, phone Københavns Taxa (tel 35 35 35 35), Hovedstadens
Taxi (tel 38 77 77 77), or Amager/Øbro Taxi (tel 32 51 51 51). If you're
in a big group, you can phone for a minibus on 35 39 35 35. Note that
when booking a taxi it's standard practice for the customer to pay for
the journey the taxi makes to pick them up.
The "Harbour Bus"
A cheap way of taking a trip on the water in Copenhagen is to ride the
small ferry, the so-called "Harbour Bus", which runs from Nodre Toldbod
(near the Little Mermaid) to Holmen, Nyhavn, Knippelsbro and the Black
Diamond. Services leave daily every twenty minutes from about 6.30am to
7pm (unless the harbour area is frozen) and cost 24kr. Tickets are valid
for one hour and are transferable to the rest of the transport network;
bikes cost an extra 12kr
Bicycles
If the weather's good, the best way to see Copenhagen is to go native
and ride a bicycle . Cycling is also excellent for exploring the
immediate countryside - bikes can be taken on S-Togs for 10kr through
any number of zones; you can also buy a special bicycle klippekort ,
valid for ten journeys and costing 90kr. The excellent, city-wide cycle
lanes make cycling very safe, though remember that lights are a legal
requirement at night (you'll be stopped and fined if the police catch
you without) and helmets are recommended at all times.
There are a number of excellent cycle rental outlets in central
Copenhagen: Københavns Cyklebørs, Gothersgade 157, Indre By (Mon-Fri
8.30am-5.30pm, Sat 10am-1.30pm; tel 33 14 07 17; 40kr/day, 185kr/week,
200kr deposit); Dan Wheel, Colbjørnsensgade 3, Vesterbro (Mon-Fri
9am-11am & 4pm-5.30pm, Sat & Sun 9am-2pm; tel 31 87 14 23; 35kr/day,
165kr/week, 200kr deposit); Københavns Cykelcenter, Reventlowsgade 11,
along the side of Central Station (Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-1pm, July &
Aug also Sun 10am-1pm; 50kr/day, 225kr/week, 300kr deposit). The city
also provides 2500 free bikes , easily recognized by the advertisements
painted onto their solid back wheels, which are scattered about the city
in racks at S-Tog stations and other busy locations; a 20kr refundable
deposit unlocks one. Unfortunately, many of the bikes are in a bad state
of repair, though you should be able to find a decent one if you look
carefully. When you've finished with it leave the bike in a rack (you
get your coin back automatically as you re-lock the bike), or just leave
it on the pavement, in which case someone will happily return it for you
and pocket the deposit. Don't secure one with your own lock and remember
not to take one outside the inner-city limits or you risk a fine. It is
also possible to rent a scooter - those under 50cc can use cycle lanes -
from Peugeot, Frederiksborgvej 59, Nørrebro (tel 38 33 40 04; 250kr/day,
1000kr deposit) - you'll need to be over 18 and hold an international
driver's or motorcycle licence.
Guided tours
Copenhagen Excursions (tel 32 54 06 06) Bus tours (with multilingual
headphone commentary) departing from the Palace Hotel on Rådhuspladsen.
Tours include a "City and Harbour" tour, by coach and boat (daily June-Sept
1.30pm & 3pm; 175kr; 2hr 30min), the "City Tour", which passes all the
major sites (daily May-Sept 9.30am, 1pm & 3pm; 130kr; 1hr 30min), the "Grand
Tour", which also includes the suburbs (daily 11am, April-Sept also at
1.30pm; 170kr; 2hr 30min); other tours cover the rest of Zealand, taking
in places such as Helsingør and Roskilde.
City Safari (tel 33 23 94 90, www.citysafari.dk ) Two-hour guided bike
tours starting by an old World War II bunker at the end of
Rewentlowsgade beside Central Station and visiting various well-known
and less well-known city attractions. Tours run twice daily in summer (daily
June-Aug 10am & 1pm; 150kr including bike hire) and during the rest of
the year according to demand - book in advance at all times.
Copenhagen Adventure Tours (tel 40 50 40 06, www.kajakole.dk ) Original
and challenging tours using well-designed, safe and easy-to-handle
kayaks. Based on Gammelstrand, Indre By (look carefully for the
canalside sign), these trips give a unique view of the city and on a
warm summer's day make an almost perfect trip. Standard ninety-minute
tours (mid-April to mid-Aug; 165kr) take in the central city canals and
Chritstianshavn; longer trips include the Little Mermaid and Holmen. The
price includes a free drink in a canalside floating bar.
DFDS Fifty-minute canal tours (daily April-Oct; 50kr; tel 33 42 33 20)
taking in various city sights including the Little Mermaid, Nyhavn and
Holmen island. Boats depart from Gammel Strand or Nyhavn every 30mins
from 10am until about an hour before sunset and have English-speaking
guides - bring a raincoat and warm clothing if the weather is bad, as
the boats are quite exposed.
Wonderful Copenhagen Tourist Office English-language guided walking
tours (May-Sept Mon-Sat at 10.30am; 50kr; tel 32 84 74 35) taking in
most of the city-centre highlights. Tours start at the Wonderful
Copenhagen office on Bernstorffsgade and last two hours.
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